I visited Annie Oakley's grave in February. Of course there was nothing left of the starving girl, sure shot, loving husband, last breath of (what never was) the Wild West. There's a plaque. There are ribbons. We leave our dead flowers, as if their flesh could find their way through soil, then unfurl. My mother says the graveyards where she lived as a child had no paths; no rows, no order, no markers. The family simply remembered. Or, as she admitted, stumbled around lost every year. Terrified, she'd skirt the mounds that marked unrelated ancestors’ remains. It's disrespectful and bad luck to step on them. There are a whole bunch more rules, but she wouldn't tell me. For everyone else I know, it's as if “dead” is another place, just between two beats, two errant steps sidelong: hold your breath and there you are. Dead. An unwilling tourist caught black-handed and returned. But the trip there is valuable, everything worth learning hurts. You can see this clearly from where we orbit that city rockets made of medals, rockets that never land.